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Where Have All the ‘It’ Kids Gone? Revisiting Schiller’s 10 Years Later
In 2003, Schiller's was the place to be. We were all young somewhere once, and my place was Schiller’s Liquor Bar. It was 2003 when Keith McNally’s proto bobo faux-brasserie opened in a former pharmacy...
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Chicken Little? Not at Rotisserie Georgette—This Bird Earns Its Place at the...
A great roast chicken must have crisp skin and moist meat. Chickens are simple birds—yard birds and cheap birds. Gallus gallus domesticus is the animal God created just before He took a nap. When a...
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Grub Match: Josh Ozersky and Joshua David Stein Slug it Out
It was a busy year in the ever-changing New York restaurant scene, from cronuts to ramenburgers, MP Taverna to Piora, Costata to Carbone, where expense accounts go to die. What were the year’s hits,...
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For Better or Verse: Danny Bowien Brings Poetry to His Dishes at Mission Cantina
Mission Cantina showcases Danny Bowien’s immense talent (photographs by Soohang Lee for The New York Observer). Some chefs are operations gurus; others are volume whores. There are downtown up-sellers...
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Jewish Christmas Sublime: Ed Schoenfeld’s RedFarm Perfects the Upper West...
Instagram has been overrun with images of RedFarm's signature Pac-Man dumplings. “Who doesn’t want to sleep with Sheryl?” asked the man to my left. “But Rick?” The man shuddered at the thought, and the...
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Meat Slog: Hugue Dufour Plays the Very, Very Long Game at the New M. Wells...
M. Wells Steakhouse: Calling out the bullshit excesses of the genre (Photo by Jesse Winter) My name is Hugue Dufour. First name “huge” but with a hard “G,” like “big deal.” I am a chef from Montreal,...
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In an Age of Hype, Look to the Birds
Any bird would be proud to find itself on the menu of Mountain Bird. (Photo: Arman Dzidzovic) In birding parlance, a life bird is the first bird of a species a birder sees. Birders remember life birds...
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Listening to Vegetables
The Dining Rooms at Narcissa: An Incubator for Love(Photo: Chris Mosier) When it is 4:30 am and the city is dark and its only sounds are the growl of municipal engines, the whisper of radiators and the...
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